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A historic declaration in Paris

During the Première Vision Paris trade fair, representatives of the textile and apparel industry from across Europe signed a joint declaration opposing ultra-fast fashion. The document bears twenty signatures representing federations and organizations from France, Italy, Portugal, Germany, the Netherlands, and Spain. The agreement aims to curb the growing wave of cheap clothing imported from China — primarily from platforms like Shein and Temu, which have rapidly gained popularity among European consumers.

The atmosphere at the Paris meeting was far from ceremonial. Participants were fully aware that the future of the entire sector was at stake.

“We are all suffering because of this situation. This is just the beginning; we must act together and quickly,” emphasized Olivier Ducatillion, President of the French Textile Industry Union.

Tradition vs. mass Production

France has been the undisputed capital of world fashion for decades. It is home to houses such as Chanel, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, and Hermès — brands that have become synonymous with elegance, craftsmanship, and quality. Generations of designers and artisans have built the prestige of the French fashion industry, emphasizing uniqueness, durability, and aesthetics.

Ultra-fast fashion appears to be a radical negation of this tradition. Mass-producing clothing at a pace dictated by algorithms and fleeting trends carries neither the history nor the values that have defined French fashion for generations.

“We can no longer pretend not to see what is happening in the market. These platforms take advantage of the fact that we play by the rules,” noted Mario Jorge Machado from Euratex. His words conveyed not only frustration but also concern about losing more than market share — about weakening the foundations of Europe’s cultural identity in fashion.

Source: Canva

Source: Canva

Environmental and health impacts

The problem extends beyond the economy. The scale is unprecedented: according to federation data, last year 4.5 billion packages from Chinese platforms were shipped to Europe. This represents five percent of total clothing sales on the continent and as much as one-fifth of online sales. Such production generates a massive carbon footprint and contributes to the overproduction of synthetics, which ultimately end up in rivers and oceans as microplastics.

Equally alarming are health concerns. Studies have shown that some clothing imported from China fails to meet basic safety standards. Children’s clothing has been found to contain toxic dyes, hazardous adhesives, and flammable materials. Tempted by low prices, consumers often unknowingly put their health at risk.

Why France?

France has long emphasized its unique role in defending quality fashion. It is no coincidence that this country was the first to pass a law defining fast fashion as a harmful business model. Fashion in France is not only an economic sector but also an element of national identity and the country’s international brand. For French authorities and designers, the fight against ultra-fast fashion is thus equivalent to protecting culture and heritage.

“The fashion industry cannot and will not wait,” warned Pierre-François Le Louët, President of UFIMH, in Paris. His words clearly signaled the determination of the French industry, aware that inaction today could lead to irreversible losses tomorrow.

Source: Canva

Source: Canva

Political front: blocking Chinese shipments

For several months, France has announced concrete steps to limit the massive inflow of packages from China. Around 1.5 billion shipments enter the country annually, half of which come from platforms like Shein and Temu. Until now, most of these shipments were exempt from customs duties under EU regulations covering packages valued under €150.

The government plans to remove this privilege, introducing an additional handling fee for each package and tightening controls regarding safety, labeling, and environmental standards. The new strategy, called the “360-degree control doctrine,” aims to ensure that every package is inspected by customs and regulatory authorities.

If France’s initiative gains support in the EU, shopping from Chinese platforms will no longer be as easy or cheap. Consumers across the European Union will feel the impact.

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